The Côte-Nord, this vast territory with diverse landscapes, gave me one of the best motorcycle experiences I've ever had. Riding along the legendary Route 138 was a memorable journey, filled with discoveries, warm encounters, and breathtaking views of the sea.
My trip started in Chicoutimi, where I took Route 172, also known as "Le Petit Parc," to join Route 138 in Tadoussac. First mandatory stop: the tourist information office, where I picked up my first stickers and the list of other collection points for the Route of Stickers. This is a collection of stickers you can accumulate as you travel through the Côte-Nord.
If you enjoy homemade sandwiches, make sure to stop at L'Emportée Coop, located right next to the ferry. This simple yet charming place is perfect for grabbing a bite before hitting the road. Continuing along Route 138, I stopped for the night in Baie-Comeau.
I stayed at La Caravelle Hotel, a well-located establishment with very spacious rooms and a welcoming atmosphere. After a long day on the road, it was exactly what I needed to relax. For craft beer lovers, the St-Pancrace microbrewery is a must-visit. Their meals are delicious, and their beer selection is simply divine. After all, what's better than a good poutine and a local beer to unwind after a day of riding on the Côte-Nord?
Route 138, often referred to as "The Route," is much more than just a means of getting around. It's the lifeline that connects the various communities in the region, from majestic mountains to plains reminiscent of the northern tundra, and windswept maritime shores. Every turn holds a new surprise, whether it's a rushing river, a dense forest, or a breathtaking view of the St. Lawrence River.
The asphalt is generally in very good condition all the way to the end of the road, except for the last unpaved kilometer in the village of Kegaska, where the road abruptly ends with a "Fin" sign. This is where the adventure of Route 138 comes to an end, but the beauty of the journey makes every kilometer a pure delight for motorcyclists.
After reaching Kegaska, I retraced my steps to spend the night in Natashquan, the birthplace of our famous chansonnier Gilles Vigneault. There, I had the chance to enjoy an excellent meal at Café-Bistro L'Échouerie, located right in front of the fine sandy beach. The seaside landscape, gentle waves, and the peacefulness of this small locality make the experience unique.
I stayed at Le Port d'Attache Inn, one of the most comfortable rooms of my entire trip. With a good mattress, soft pillows, and the sea breeze gently blowing through the balcony door, my night was incredibly restful. The next morning, the innkeeper, Magella Landry, welcomed me with a hearty breakfast overlooking the sea. This breakfast, with a view of the ocean, was undoubtedly one of the highlights of my adventure.
After hitting the road again in the rain, I continued my journey towards Sept-Îles. On the way, I stopped at Fumoir à Goynish, famous for its smoked salmon. Although the smokehouse was closed during my visit, the owners kindly opened their doors to give me a tour and let me sample their products. The cold-smoked and marinated salmon is simply exceptional—a real treat for salmon lovers.
Another stop was in Havre-Saint-Pierre, where I had Labrador tea at Chez Julie, a small, picturesque café by the harbor. I also discovered chicoutai jam, an underrated delight that resembles raspberries but with an even more delicate flavor.
Upon arriving in Sept-Îles, I checked into Hotel Sept-Îles, with an impressive view of the sea and marina. Though the town was quiet on this off-season Sunday evening, the hotel restaurant is an excellent choice—along with the famous Edgar Café Bar, which was closed—to wrap up a rainy day.
After a good but short night with the sea breeze in my room, I hit the road early the next morning and stopped at La Crêperie de la Reine for a delicious breakfast crepe—believe me, it's worth the detour! I then continued my journey home, arriving later that day.
I had been thinking about reaching the end of Route 138 for a long time. Taking the time to follow the Route of Stickers allowed me to discover many small communities in the Côte-Nord that I didn't know before. I rank this route among the must-do roads, one to absolutely revisit.
By Moto Phil from Voyage Moto Québec
The whole itinerary is here.